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ReefWoldorf
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Hi everyone. A new grower my first time and need help with the pictures i will add.  If anyhelp on what i am doing wrong so i rectifiy it. Ph was 6.4  this morning dropped itnto 6.0. I am in week 4 of veg. I am using. Advance nutrients 3part alongside sensei calmag and hydroguard. With mixing nuts how should they be in order also. Thanks yall

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6FDAA14A A3B5 437A 806B 3155AC1B2467
A89AF416 897A 4301 99F5 CB5286BCFECB
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Shonuff
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@420chemist plant looks pretty healthy to me.  Those little spots look like wind burn or agitation from rubbing against another leaf or stem while being blown around.  Or possibly a little critter nibbling on them.  

Generally with your nutrients you want to add cal/mag first then your 3 part line.   

Hope this helps. Smile

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ReefWoldorf
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@shonuff thanks mate😀

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@420chemist Im a new grower aswell but I saw summits similar to this elsewhere and it was a pest infestation, spidermites I think, but dont go by that but just check under leaf use mygnify glass if you have one but sure these guys can better assist just a suggestion, hope you get it sorted all the best good luck

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ReefWoldorf
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@spab will do that im the morning when light schedule is on. Thanks

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Hang sticky traps to help detect any insects and a monitor part of your IPM.

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ReefWoldorf
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@cococoir thanks mate🙏🏾

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Posted by: @420chemist

Ph was 6.4  this morning dropped itnto 6.0.

You didn’t mention your media. Strictly a guess from your pictures but is it DWC or something different? I see foil over what looks like black buckets with labels but I’ve learned to not assume stuff because different growers have different techniques so I’m asking instead of thinking I know the answer.

The spots look like some type of mechanical damage to me, just like Shonuff said.

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ReefWoldorf
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@monkeydo yes i am doing dwc. Was getting light leaks so i had to use the foil to seal it. 
if i may ask. Is there a feeding chart for autoflowers in hydroponics . If yes pls  point me in the right direction.  I am using advance nutrients at the moment

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@420chemist the guides at the forum seem to be unavailable at the minute but the guy with the best dwc answers is @woodi2. I think he’ll see that he’s tagged. Let’s see what info he has.

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Hey @420chemist.

So your in week 4 with auto's in DWC, right?

How many plants do you have, are they all the same?

Are they're in single buckets with no recirculating?

You have a PH and a EC meter, and what are the current reads?

What is your water source and what is your back ground EC if your using tap water?

If your using Advanced nutrients do you have their feed chart. I haven't used Advanced yet but I do use a three part.

You mentioned light leaks, do your roots look brown? Have you covered your net pot themselves? Light will penetrate through the hydroton, so cover the net pots and any other air line holes. Make sure to close the lids tightly, just don't set them on the bucket.

How often have you changed the water?

That's a start, we'll figure it out. Send pics of the whole plant and roots if possible. 

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ReefWoldorf
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@woodi2 Yes it is a 5gallon bucket And fitted with an airpump. Currently only one plant is ahead in this stage. I used distilled water. Similar to bottled water. Ppm for the water i use is around 12-14ppm . The reader uses the Eutech scale. PH is mostly around 5.9 6.0 6.1 .Yes i have brown roots why i strated to cover and i realised leaks. A friend said feeding autoflower is different with photoperiods.(a bit confused cos he said most charts are for pohto periods). Hopefully i get expert opinion on this statement aswell.
will update with pics of the leaves  root in the morning.hopefully roots are responding better.

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@420chemist, there's no difference in feeding ratios from autos to photo's. But If you have brown roots and an unstable PH then it sounds like root rot but send some pics. But you need some hydrogen peroxide if it is root rot. You can use the stuff from the drug store, 3% is what you'll need. Send the pics and describe what all is going on. What light are you using, at what power setting and how close? 18/6 schedule?  ttyl

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ReefWoldorf
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@woodi2  added the pics.  I am using SF2000 spiderfarmer.  Will switch to ES300 when she starts to flower. Currently light is set  to 80. Distance from light is 24Inches. The browness of the root has reduced  compared to last friday.  I am currently running 20/4 schedule for the light

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Here's a feed chart that might help. These are conservative numbers that should be safe to use. Each vertical line is a weeks growths, but gives you a good suggestion of what EC, PH temp and all that jazz should be. 

 

Screenshot 20210217 205347 LI

 

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ReefWoldorf
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Posted by: @woodi2

Here's a feed chart that might help. These are conservative numbers that should be safe to use. Each vertical line is a weeks growths, but gives you a good suggestion of what EC, PH temp and all that jazz should be. 

 

Screenshot 20210217 205347 LI

 

I just realised i was feeding with the  700 scale 🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️. I just pipped down the ppm  i was way off.  How good is photone on ios.

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The  ppm dropped from 810 to 770 in two days. The ph is stable at 6.0

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@420chemist, hey morning. Ok if your PH is stable at 6.0 that's good. If your PPM dropped from 810 to 770 that's fine to. If you could use EC instead of PPM that would be easier. I don't know if your on the 500 or 700 scale, if your in the UK then it likely to be the 700 scale but I would have to assume. Without knowing which PPM scale you have, your 770 could translate to an EC of 1.1 on the 700 scale or 1.55 on the 500 scale and this is a big diff.

If your PH is stable and your PPM is dropping then that is a great place to be. I would reduce from 24/0 to 18/6, plants need sleep. Plus if your not using a PAR meter then you could easily be giving too much light. Read your SF booklet that gives you hanging heights and go easy on the dimmer. I have SF and it calls for 40%-90% for veg and I can barely hit 42% before my PAR meter says stop. So be careful.  

Mixing nutrients:

1- start will silica. If your using RO or Distilled water you'll need this. If your using tap then you should be ok but could still benefit from it. 

2- add your base nutrients and start in the correct order, exmp- part A first, then part B or #1 first etc.

3- add Cal/mag

4- add your other additives

5- PH the solution and add your beneficial bacteria 

When I change my solution, I also pour anywhere from 2L-4L of straight PH'd RO water with 2x the bennies over the hydroton. This helps to keep the hydroton inoculated with the bennies and also flush out the pebbles. Make sure that the water is PH'd. Hydroton will naturally have a high PH, so if you didn't rinse and treat the hydroton initially it can cause problems later. So just flush the pebbles every time you change the water, 7-10 days.

If you believe that you have root rot then you can treat it with H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide). You'll need 3% and you can use the drug store stuff for this one time application.

Add 15ml per gal/4L to your existing solution and keep it there for 24hrs. After that amount of time, remove the plant and place it in a plastic pitcher with an air stone in the bottom. Mix up fresh water with the H2O2 at 15ml per gal/4L and slowly pour over the hydroton pebbles until the pitcher is full and the plant is basically floating. Let this sit for 30mins. Remove plant from pitcher and discard water.  Place plant back in pitcher and rinse with straight distilled water, then do it again. Your rinsing all the H2O2 out, so rinse twice. Then you'll take distilled water that has bennies in it and you rinse with that. Place the plant back in the pitcher and fill with water and bennies and let it bubble for 20 mins. Meanwhile you have washed and cleaned the bucket, the air stone can be used with H2O2 so that cleans that. You mix up fresh nutrients at a slightly lighter dose and reintroduce the clean plant back into the clean bucket with clean nutrients. You have doubled the amount of bennies, (you can't over do it with the bennies) then the next day you'll add the full amount of bennies again just to be safe. 

H2O2 kills any organic material, god or bad. So it will wipe out your root rot and your beneficial bacteria all at the same time. This is why you have to rinse very well and also add more bennies the next day just incase. H2O2 is water with an extra oxygen molecule attached, it loses the extra one pretty quickly and turns into water again. So if left alone in a day or two the H2O2 would become regular H20, and your plant will drink it. There's a lot to it but that will get you started, I need to go, sorry.  

Screenshot 20220110 182241

Find something for them to sit in.

PXL 20211210 183006396
PXL 20211209 142424653

If the lid doesn't come off, no problem.

PXL 20210908 115138809

 

 

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ReefWoldorf
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@woodi2 thanks alot this has been really helpfull.🙇🏾‍♂️💯

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@woodi2 thanks for the tips and all. Informative and helpful. This is how she looking currently.

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@420chemist, well man she looks real good. Just keep the green side up and you have success! lol As long as I back off and don't allow myself to get too rammy, they do well. To me it's like driving on snow or ice- it's a slower take off, but then it's just maintain speed and slowly accelerate to top speed, maintaining control, then start braking ahead of your harvest. Some plant go faster than others and your environment plays a big part to. Keep doing what your doing. 👍  

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ReefWoldorf
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@woodi2 thanks mate. i will keep the thread updated on the progress also

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The ppm scale is 500. Device was purshased in the US. The booklet gives  Distance in Veg as 14/16 inches. Will probs tone down the dimmer and move it closer to the plants as booklet states.  

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You gotta watch your ppm scale. 500 is standard in the US. 

 

Some prefer EC.

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ReefWoldorf
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Update: she keeps getting big. Will attach some pics. 

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ReefWoldorf
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  • Week 5 she still going. When is best time to defoliate  any help🙏🏾.
  •  
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@420chemist Be prepared to get a number of different answers. It's hard to tell by the picture. Not sure what else to say other than I like to wait until they go to flower to defoliate my plants.

I prefer to do the "Lollypop" method with my indoor plants when I flip to 12/12 lights schedule. Week number can vary from plant to plant.

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@420chemist I agree with Super C, its best to flip first, then wait a week or two until flowers start to form, then do the big lollypop Smile

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With Autos i keep the same or flip to 12/12 .  Its an Auto.

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@420chemist same thing mate, but keep on 18/6 if thats how you plant to do it, but dont trim any off until the flowers start to form Smile

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@macky  thanks. Also ppm dropped from 750 to 617 .changed the water this sunday. That is normal? And what lvl of ppm should i change the water.

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@420chemist, what brand of nutrient are you using and have you been using a feeding chart to this point? Like Macky said, defoliate after stretch. Keep the auto's at 18/6 and they'll be fine. If she's on week 5 then anytime she should start showing sex and then flower will be close behind that. 

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ReefWoldorf
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@woodi2  i am using advanced nutrients 3part with calmag and hydrogurd. And yes i use the feeding chart  but i realised if i use stated amount my ppm is way above the needed level. So i reduce em a bit to suit the cycles ppm needs. 

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@420chemist, I use a 3 part with Cal/mag and Hydroguard too. General Hydroponics. I just started flower with photo's and my EC is at 1.30 and the PPM is 650 (I'm on the 500 scale for PPM, the US scale). I'm at 1/2 the recommended strength according to the chart. I was at a 1/4 strength. I mix at half the strength and if it's too high, I add 1L-2L and see what that does and I keep at it till it's right. After awhile you'll get a feel for where you need to be with the EC. It's better to be at a lower EC then a higher one, it's safer and easier on the plant. Try and use EC instead of PPM, there are other variables with PPM but only one way with EC. So no matter where you are in the world, if you speak to me about EC there is no language barrier.  Always start off at 1/4 of the recommended strength then slowly move towards 1/2 strength. Don't ever use full strength until you know that's what it needs. Hope this helps. 

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@woodi2 yeah inuse the ec to ppm conversion you shared earlier on. Think some weeks ago. I am using 500 scale also so i convert the ppm to ec. After i check if i am in range. 

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@420chemist I’m curious about the 3 part Advanced Nutrients stuff and hydro. I also use Advanced Nutrients but I use Sensi Coco and the ph perfect tech always sets the ph at 5.8 every time I mix. I was under the impression that the 3 part nutrient system was set up for soil and the ph is automatically set for 6.5 but I’ve got no experience with this. When you mix the nutrients and before you add any ph up or down, what is the ph of the nutrient mix?

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@monkeydo mostly it sets the ph around 6.0 6.1 .

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  @420chemist, Monkeydo has a good point, plus I haven't used Advanced yet. But the pic is small but it looks like there might be some light stress from the edge curling of the leaf and it looks like it could be low on Cal/mag by the appearance of the leaf surface. Or that could be bleaching from the light being too close. Either way, I'd check the Cal/mag amounts and might increase it by .25ml + per gallon.

  Reread your lights recommended height and power level and adjust if necessary. I'd probably raise a inch or two above the recommended height and set it at a little under the power setting, you'll get farther working under the values then working over them. There are conservation charts for PPM to EC, just make sure you know what scale your using.

  I would adjust the lights and increase the Cal/mag for 24hrs and see what they say. Good luck man.  

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@woodi2 thanks man. Appreciate . I just moved her to a new light Electricsky300. Have photone to read the par and i adjusted the light to plant distance. Will adjust them a few inches. And i can add more calmag to the current  water or i need to use a fresh batch of feed. 

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@420chemist, lol, I just changed from 2- Electric Sky ES300 V2. They are a good light but I burnt a lot of plants with them. But I've changed lights and I also bought a PAR meter. I haven't used the PAR meter on the ES yet but they aren't going anywhere.  They'll be up and running again this winter, they put out a bit of heat with their built-in driver. I would advise anyone to get a PAR meter, you don't realize how important they are till you have one. That dimmer switch in your hand doesn't tell you shit compared to a PAR meter. If I went off the manufactures recommendation for my new lights my plants would be fried. If I went off ES recommendations, I fried plants, I bought a PAR meter and now I don't fry plants. I bought the cheap PAR meter, works great. Now I can see when the plants are stressing from light or something else. This is very important in hydro if your pushing your plants.  

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@woodi2 yes Par meter really comes in handy. I got the right par ranging from 350-600 atm and 24inches away. Recomended in veg. 

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@woodi2 I never used one in my early days but keeping an eye on the par level really does make a difference. Once you dial in how your light produces at certain heights it becomes less of a necessity but in general it is always a good thing to have on hand, especially if your pushing the plants as you mentioned. I'm old school I crank the lights and send it lol can take the grower out of the stone age but you can't take the stone age outta the grower 🤣

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@bubblehok, exactly. It took quite a while before I pulled the trigger on one, I thought no way I don't need another toy. But after using it, I have answers to my questions!! lol Then once you use it, your set and it's too easy. But I understand completely cause I never thought I'd have one. But if your going to use LED's to grow from seed to harvest it sure does help.  

Remember to always drag your cave women by the hair. fyi just say'in.  🤣 

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BubbleHok
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@woodi2 yep nowadays a par meter is almost a necessity. 

I found they respond better and are easier to handle if you grunt and throw food at them, the hair pulling can get misconstrued 🤣

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Just seeing some hairs

052A6ED2 C4E3 49E5 820F 8FD602BE5C66

 

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38CA17BC 3882 4CD2 AD9E C67B9B10B60C
B7BEE596 B8C0 4EDA 805A BA719E078506

@woodi2 @BubbleHok yall cranking me up.😂😂😂. Well i guess i am lucky to have all these toold available now. I am just hoping this being my first ever cannabis grow i nail em☺️.  And pom dropped from 617 from yesterday to 440 now. Do i change the water now or wait a little. Also more whitehair popping up

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@420chemist, change the water once a week. If your EC drops during that time, either add nutrients to your add back water, or remove a gallon of water (however much) from the system and add more nutrients to it and replace back into your system. If your using the 3 part and your starting flower just use the part 1 and part 3 when you add back. Those should be the micro and bloom. Part 2 is N, and you don't want that in flower, there enough N in part 1. I use them at a 1-2 ratio, 1ml part 1 and 2ml part 3. If it were my grow I would be adding back with Cal/mag first, 1/4ml-1/2ml per gal/4L, then 1ml part 1 and 2ml part 2, total, then bennies. I would add this to 5 gallon/19L and see how much it affects it, it's pretty low. But I start with this and increase it by 1/2ml increments till I know what it takes to get back to the EC that I want. It just takes practice.  Then change completely ever 7 days. If the EC starts rising then you have too much nutrients and add straight water to dilute. If your starting flower then start slowly increasing your Cal/mag now, week 4-6 of flower, there will be a big demand for it. Good luck.

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ReefWoldorf
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@woodi2 thanks alot. Very informative🙏🏾🙏🏾💯💥

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Love my par meter. 

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