Cuz there’s so much moisture In the air when I’m cooling the room from outside it sucks in to cool the room and then the Dehumidifier Carnt keep up. High humidity’s!!!!!!!!
im running a InkbirdSmart. Thermostat With a heater and using the intake/exhaust for cooling, a inkbird humidy with a Argo humidifier and pro breeze 1500ml dehumidifier, just upgraded from the 500ml.
humidity % continues to rise until the room exhausts. Ok for now but wen I a get to flower I’m going to be fooked.
Is there a description of your grow room/environment somewhere that you can link to? From what I gather you are growing in a room and pulling air into said room from outside (outdoors)?
Is that correct? Here are my questions:
What kind of climate do you live in?
What kind of room is the grow room (closet, unfinished, garage, etc.)?
How big is the grow room?
How are you intaking and also exhausting your air (size of fans/ducts, cfm speeds)?
What kind of lights are you running?
What are the relative humidity and temperatures in your grow room with the lights on and off?
Water is life.
@bogleg thank you for the reply I’m attempting to grow in my shed, in uk winter weather, 4 inch ducting for intake and exhaust from outside. Migrow led 4 way. 240watts. 1500x600x900. Air tight Enclosure. With 2 x 4 inch fans via controllers attached to rhino carbon filters in and out. Inkbird probes, 4 inch ram air circulation fan, oil heater.
relative temps and humidity good question, ill have to Turn everything off except the light and let you no. The outside air is 2 degrees at 90% RH. 🤦♂️
And are they constant speed or variable speed? How hot does it get in winter in the shed with the lights on and no fans running?
What I'm driving at is whether or not it would be possible to only intake as much air as needed, so you aren't heating and removing moisture from more air than is necessary. So if the fans ran with a cycle (say 1 minute on, and 9 minutes off), would the temps get above 25C, and would the RH average lower?
Water is life.
Hi buddy try pulling the filter off your intake and replace with a pair of stockings and possibly shut the intake fan off , as above the vents can help your high rh while light run
@bogleg so have the oil heater thats linked to the inkbird device to activate when the temp goes below 20 and swith off at 25 and have the fans on a seperate timer to com on every 9 minutes for minute.
ive got smscom fan controlers as low as i can get em on 4 inch ducking and it blowing a gail though my space, rvk fan
You don't want equal amount of pressures or there no point having a filter.
I would try having the extraction fan on and the intake fan off, (I don't have a intake fan and I grow in a shed in the UK (south east))
and the heater on constant, IMO its better to have the room hitting 33c and 25c lights off with the humidity hitting 60 than 25c and 15c lights off
with the humidity hitting say 80
check this chart out for an example
As the tempter goes up the humidity goes down, also causing a strong vacuum will reduce the humidity loads
don't let the plant canopy get too think as this will also increase humidity, water just before the light go on,
after watering the humidity will spike but with the light on the temps will be higher so the humidity will still be lower than light off
@straight_coco to have the outake always on i have to have equal amount of intake for the pressures and i cannot heat it quick enough cuz the space is so small and air tight and the air is so cold
Get some kingspan/celotex etc. or even loose lay rolls of insulation (itchy shit though) and insulate your tent especially the floor and then run passive intake as mentioned above...will save on your heating bills, keep air in the tent warmer and reduce RH as much as possible, or insulate the shed, run passive and put heater outside tent to warm intake air
For a short time i did a very basic setup in a shed and the plants cooked in the summer hitting 38c and droppinging down to 10c in the winter.
So I built a large high shed and lined the roof/floor and walls with 30mm rockwall and have passive intake airflow that roll over some tube heaters, works really well and does not take up any room,
You could have a 12"x 8" hole (in the floor one end of the shed, cover with mesh stop flys)with a 4ft long box (6"heigh × 8") wide with open at each end, slide 2 × 4ft tube heaters in there.
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