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Subcool super soil - smaller batches  

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Phenohunter88
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Was searching through my bookmarks and came across SubCool's super soil recipe. The full recipe is there, as well as breakdown for smaller batches, thought it might be a great resource for someone wanting to try supersoil out on a smaller scale before committing their entire grow. Only thing I suppose I don't like would be the "large bag" measurement, and maybe the lack of metric measurements. I suppose i can do the conversions on my next post. I will eventually put up our variation of this subcool recipe that @spitriddler and I use in our growroom, just have to find it first *smirk. Aaannnnd, ctrl +v....

 

 

Here are the amounts we’ve found will produce the best-tasting buds and strongest medicines:

8 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
25 to 50 lbs of organic worm castings
5 lbs steamed bone meal
5 lbs Bloom bat guano
5 lbs blood meal
3 lbs rock phosphate
¾ cup Epson salts
½ cup sweet lime (dolomite)
½ cup azomite (trace elements)
2 tbsp powdered humic acid

This is the same basic recipe I’ve been using for the past 15 years. The hardest ingredient to acquire are the worm castings (especially since many people don’t even know what they are. FYI: worm poop). But don’t decide to just skip them: Be resourceful. After all, worms comprise up to ¾ of the living organisms found underground, and they’re crucial to holding our planet together. Also, don’t waste money on a “soil conditioner” with worm castings; source out some local pure worm poop with no added mulch.

Subcool is the author of Dank: The Quest for the Very Best Marijuana, available at dankgearonline.com.

THIS ARTICLE WAS FEATURED IN THE MARCH 2009 ISSUE OF HIGH TIMES

****************************************************************
Now for the break out of this recipe for those that do not need a mix on this massive scale.

Subcool's soil recipe broken down for the lazy folks

Full Recipe
8 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
25 to 50 lbs of organic worm castings
5 lbs steamed bone meal
5 lbs bloom bat guano
5 lbs blood meal
3 lbs rock phosphate
¾ cup Epson salts
½ cup sweet lime (dolomite)
½ cup azomite (trace elements)
2 tablespoons powdered humic acid

1/2 Recipe
4 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
12.5 to 25 lbs of organic worm castings
2.5lbs steamed bone meal
2.5lbs bloom bat guano
2.5lbs blood meal
1.5lbs rock phosphate
3/8 cup or 6 tablespoons Epsom Salts
1/4 cup or 4 tablespoon sweet lime (dolomite)
1/4 cup or 4 tablespoons azomite (trace elements)
1 tablespoon powdered humic acid

1/4 Recipe
2 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
6.25 to 12.5 lbs of organic worm castings
1.25lbs or 20 ounces steamed bone meal
1.25lbs or 20 ounces bloom bat guano
1.25lbs or 20 ounces blood meal
3/4 lbs rock phosphate
3/16 cup or 3 tablespoons Epsom Salts
1/8 cup or 2 tablespoons sweet lime (dolomite)
1/8 cup or 2 tablespoons azomite (trace elements)
1.5 teaspoons powdered humic acid

1/8 Recipe

1 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
3.125 to 6.25 lbs of organic worm castings
.625 lbs or 5/8 lbs or 10 ounces steamed bone meal
.625 lbs or 5/8 lbs or 10 ounces bloom bat guano
.625 lbs or 5/8 lbs or 10 ounces blood meal
3/8 lbs or 6 ounces rock phosphate
3/32 cup or 1.5 tablespoons Epsom Salts
1/16 cup or 1 tablespoon sweet lime (dolomite)
1/16 cup or 1 tablespoon azomite (trace elements)
3/4 teaspoon powdered humic acid

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Posted : March 27, 2020 3:43 am
Mossbeardmitch, Fish, Hart and 4 people liked
Phenohunter88
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Shout out to @templegrower ...... https://percysgrowroom.com/forum/organics/organic-super-soil-recipe/#post-13040

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Posted : March 27, 2020 3:45 am
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Yeah, Subcool definitely had a LOT to do with my recipe. I actually have that exact link from High Times bookmarked as well, haha.

One thing I am a bit wary of are the various rock dust-type products (rock phosphate, basalt dust, azomite, pulverized granite, greensand, etc). While there is no disputing that they have some nutritional content, I'm not so sure those minerals are ever really available to the plant during it's growth, at least not in a newly made batch of soil. They take a looong time to weather out and become part of the soil and able to be used by plants, and only under the right conditions. In a no-till semi-permanent raised bed situation, it might be a good addition over a number of years, but for a quick 3-4 month cannabis grow, I tend to stick to kelp/seaweed and those types of things to get the micronutes/trace elements. Much more readily available.

Life's a garden...dig it - Joe Dirt
Supersoil recipe (by me!) --> https://percysgrowroom.com/organic-super-soil-recipe/

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Posted : March 27, 2020 4:48 am
Mossbeardmitch, Fish, Hart and 3 people liked
Phenohunter88
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We stayed away from those amendments as well. Azomite made the cut, but we thought the same as you with the rock phosphate or gypsum. I know we did use oyster shell flour. Kelp and alfalfa meal were used as well. This definitely motivates me to find our recipe and post. 

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Posted : March 27, 2020 12:33 pm
Mossbeardmitch, Fish, Hart and 4 people liked
Hart
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Don't want to step on anyone's toes but I came across this article... Opinions?

https://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/12533881-whats-so-cool-about-super-soil-the-super-soil-recipe-breakdown

We just smiled n waved sittn there on that sack o seeds

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Posted : March 29, 2020 12:49 pm
Mossbeardmitch, Fish, Macky and 2 people liked
Phenohunter88
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 I guess technically those toes would be subcools’ lol. After reading that article I feel it’s safe to assume that Subcool slept with his wife at some point along the line bahahahah. 

The Subcool recipe was a great starting point for us as new farmers, more research revealed some flaws (in our humble, never grown before opinions) and motivated us to replace the amendments that didn’t fit “our criteria” or weren’t deemed to be as effective for our desired results (sweet ass bud lol). 

The real reason we use super soil is to spend less time with nutrients and more time massaging fan leaves and singing Whitesnake 80’s love songs to them, that’s probably the real reason they have looked so damn good.....my angelic voice lol
😏

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Posted : March 29, 2020 5:27 pm
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166A064F 46E4 4F28 A476 0D83EC0FBCE0

Random acts of kindness make the world a better place

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Posted : March 29, 2020 5:46 pm
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@monkeydo 😂🤣😂🤣

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Posted : March 29, 2020 6:04 pm
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@leafnation88 I agree it's all about experimentation and trying what works for you, tis how we learn. The recipe is a good start for sure, here's some I'm looking at, probably go with a combination for a Heinz57 mix, lol. Ahh the good ol big hair band days!  

Link Removed: Try not to link away from the site too much Smile Especially shody wix built sites 😉 

We just smiled n waved sittn there on that sack o seeds

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Posted : March 30, 2020 11:50 am
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CLACKAMAS COOTS MIX

 
 

LEARN - SHARE - GROW

Water Only TLO that Can be combined with Teas!!!

 

Base mix:

 

1. 1/3 sphagnum peat moss

2. 1/3 aération (perlite, pumice, lava rock, rice hulls, etc.)

3. 1/3 HIGH QUALITY compost and/or worm casting

 

     To every 1 cubic foot (~7.5 gallons) of the base mix add :

 

1. 1/2 cup kelp meal

2. 1/2 cup crab shell meal

3. 1/2 cup neem or karanja cake

4. 1 cup gypsum

5. 1 cup CaCO3 (oyster shell flour, dolomite lime, calcitic lime, etc.)

6. 4-5 cups rock dust per cf Rock dust should be super fine: the consistency of flour.

 

That’s it!!! 

 

The key here is quality compost/worm castings. That is the LIVING part that makes this whole soil mix work. So it must be HIGH QUALITY. Water with dechlorinated water and you are set!! No pHing, no checking the TDS of run off, no cal/mag, no BS! And best of all it works fabulously in a SIP!!!

THE REV'S SUPER SOIL MIX

 
 

LEARN - SHARE - GROW

BASE MIX

2 gal Quality Organic Soil-mix (or good organic recycled soil mix)
2 gal Thoroughly Rinsed Coir (coconut fiber)
2 gal Perlite (small nugget size)
2 gal Earthworm Castings (fresh earthworm castings, and/or fresh compost works too)

AMENDMENTS

1½ cup Grow or Bloom ‘Pure’ by Organicare (or 1 cup 5-5-5)
½ cup Greensand
¾ cup Ground Oyster Shells (1 cup if no crushed oyster shells)
1½ cup Crushed Oyster Shells (optional)
½ cup Dolomite Lime (powdered)
1 cup Prilled (pelletized) Fast Acting Dolomite Lime
¼ cup Blood Meal (and/or High N Bird/Bat Guano 12-8-2 N-P-K if flowering 1/8 cup of each)
¼ cup (heaping) Feather Meal
1 cup un-steamed (granular) Bone Meal (like Whitney Farms brand)
½ cup Bulb Food (3-8-8 as one good N-P-K example)
¼ cup Soft Rock Phosphate (powdered)
½ cup (heaping) Gypsum (powdered)
½ cup Kelp Meal
4 cups (heaping) Composted Steer Manure (this inoculates your mix with specialized bacteria and              primo organic matter)
½ cup Azomite granular (add an additional ¼ cup greensand if no Azomite)
1 cup Humic Acid Ore granular (like from Down to Earth brand)
1 cup Alfalfa Meal (or 2 cups pellets – make sure pellets are all organic no additives)
½ cup Rock Phosphate Granular (optional)
1 cup (heaping) organic rice (important for the good fungi in this soil-mix)

 

NOTES: This mix should be moistened (Do not get it soaking wet!) with chlorine free water, and turned over every few days, for about 15 days before use. This is what I call “cooking” your soil, and letting it get pretty dry before use, is fine. The nutrients don’t evaporate or anything, so no worries there, per storage over time. If this soil-mix turns out to be too hot (powerful) for some reason, just cut it with good bagged organic soil until you get the strength your environment and genetics demands.

I find cooking mine for about 30 days works the best for me, but I have often used it sooner, like at 2 weeks, and just remember the warmer it is outside wherever the soil-mix is at, the faster the cooking processes will happen. You can use a pH meter (soil pH meter) to tell when it is done cooking too. I wait until it is in the 6.2 – 6.8 range, which normally takes about 2 weeks, because as it kicks off cooking the pH will often be very low, like around 4.9 isn’t uncommon when it first starts to cook.

ONLY FOR USE WITH PURE WATER SOURCES, LIKE REVERSE OSMOSIS, RAIN, OR DISTILLED WATER. DO NOT USE WELL, TAP, OR SPRING WATER WITH THIS RECIPE

BUILD-A-SOIL MIX

 
 

LEARN - SHARE - GROW

BUILD-A-SOIL MIX

Step #1: Design The Base Mix Ratios.

This is a benchmark to use at first and then start tweaking based on your situation.

1:1:1

 

This means that there are 3 main components at 1 part each.
Example: To make 15 gallons of soil. 1 Part would be 5 gallons.

1 Part Sphagnum Peatmoss, Coco, Leaf-mold, Etc.
1 Part Aeration material like lava rock, pumice, perlite, rice hulls etc.
1 Part Vermicompost or plain compost.

 

The recipe that I prefer is a little more complicated and is as follows:

40% Sphagnum Peat Moss
25% Vermicompost
20% Pumice
15% Par Boiled Rice Hulls

 

You’ll notice that if you combine the rice hulls and pumice it’s basically a 1:1:1 mix with just a
little less vermicompost as I like to top-dress with more.

Step #2: Adding The Minerals & Nutrients:

 

1/2 Cup per cubic foot the following:
* Neem Cake and/or Karanja Cake (NPK, Micro Nutrients and reported Bug Defense all in one)
* Kelp Meal (NPK, Micro Nutrients, Growth Hormones and many other benefits)
* Crustacean Meal (Crab and/or Shrimp Meal) (Calcium, Nitrogen and Chitin along Plus more)
4 Cups per cubic foot of a mineral mix:
1 Cups Glacial Rock Dust (diverse assortment of minerals)
1 Cup Gypsum (Calcium and Sulfur)
1 Cup Oyster Shell Flour (Very available Calcium to help buffer PH of the Peatmoss)
1 Cup Basalt (Paramagnetic Rock Dust from lava flow that is high in micronutrients)

 

The Nutrients added above cover all the NPK and all the micronutrients and I could explain why
each ingredient is added all day long, but I encourage you to do your own research.
Now let’s say that you had access to a range of Fertilizer amendments to use, which ones should
you choose? I like to choose the best product and also the most economical. For instance Guano
is really expensive and typically only brings one or two things to the table. Where as Kelp Meal
is fairly affordable and brings every nutrient and micronutrient with it along with growth
hormones and other secondary benefits. Would it be better to eat Red meat all day long or maybe
a little fish protein with some vegetable protein? Same for your soil! No need to get all crazy
with Blood meal when we can use, Crustacean, Neem, Fish etc. and all of the ingredients I just
mentioned bring tons of secondary benefits where as the Blood Meal only brings Nitrogen and
some salt.

 

Note: If you only have access to Blood Meal, you will be fine and can totally use it, I’m not
trying to get on a high horse and look down on people that use these ingredients. I’m only hoping
to give reasons to look for better ingredients when those choices are available and providing
some reasons for those that want them. All in all, I’d rather see a Blood, Bone and Guano Mix
over a synthetic nutrient grow all day long.... but if you start looking into the environmental
impact of some of the ingredients we use you’ll quickly consider making your own soil from
totally local ingredients and once you have an idea how well this recipe performs you can start
tweaking it to use what is available in your region.
Some Recommendations for custom soil building:

MORE isn’t always better. Consider the Kelp, Crustacean and Neem Fertilizers that I recently
recommended. Suppose a hypothetical situation where they all take exactly 6 months to be
completely broken down in the soil and offer little to no benefit to the plant any longer. Well,
adding twice the amount will still lead to a depletion in 6 months... it’s not like having twice the
kelp will last twice as long, much better to top dress some a little later or incorporate into teas.

 

Most soil recipes have a total of 1.5 - 3 cups of Total fertilizers added per cubic foot of Mix. I
like to keep things really minimal knowing I can always add more later and topdressing is so easy
when you pre-mix with vermicompost. No worry about burning. The other reason I like to add
small amounts of simple ingredients is because it allows you to diversify the soil with ingredients
you haven’t added later on. For instance, my recipe doesn’t call for Alfalfa, but I love the stuff
and make tea’s with it all the time, no reason to have it in the soil and in the tea. But if you never
want to brew teas you could always top dress. It’s up to you.

 

Take it to the next level with Home made Vermicompost and you’ll have a soil better than 99%
of the growers out there. Here is an excellent recipe from the guy who really got my brain
thinking, Clackamas Coots:

“This is the compost that I started with:

• 1 c.y. organic barley straw
• 12 lbs. basalt rock dust
• 2 c.f. roughly chopped Comfrey as the Nitrogen source
• 5 c.f. pumice (1/4" size)

When the material ramped back down to 100F or so I added the following:

3 lbs. kelp meal

3 lbs. a neem / karanja meal mix

1 lb. organic alfalfa meal

1 c.f. roughly chopped Comfrey leaves

1 c.f. roughly chopped mint mix - Peppermint, Spearmint, Thyme, Cilantro, Holy Basil (Tulsi) and chopped Rosemary.

3 lbs. organic fish meal

3 lbs. crustacean meal

I loaded this into #150 SmartPot and dumped about 3 gallons of worms that I harvested from
other set-ups also using SmartPots. Basically 3 gallons is somewhere around 10 - 11 lbs. of
worms. I covered this with barley straw to reduce evaporation in the bedding material.
A year later I harvested over 28 lbs. of worms, thousands and thousands of cocoons (using a 1/8"
screen which will capture the cocoons) and this specific batch of vermicompost is what I'm
currently using.

Then just mix it up as such:

1/3 Humus

1/3 SPM or Leaf Mold

1/3 Aeration (Rice hulls/Pumice/Lava Rock)

A bit of time and effort is required at the front end for sure. After that's done, just add water.”
Mixing the soil together: Recipe for about 18 Cubic Feet of soil or 135 Gallons.

 

I like to use a big tarp when making soil by hand.
(1) 3.8 Cubic Foot Bale of Sphagnum Peat moss will expand to about 6 cubic feet when opened
up. That means that you could make about 15-18 cubic feet of soil with one 3.8 cubic foot bale of
peatmoss depending on your final percentages.
I like to break up the peat moss into a flat thick layer on the tarp and then dump the castings on
top of that. Then dump all the minerals and fertilizers on top of that followed by your aeration
amendments and mix thoroughly. Every once in awhile I take the edge of the tarp and flip the
soil back to the middle and keep mixing.... sometimes I move the soil from the left side of the
tarp over to the right side of the tarp and then back to the middle just to make sure it’s all mixed
well. All in all, don’t get to freaked out about things being mixed exact because it’s all organic
and very forgiving.

 

Once your soil is mixed up, you can plant immediately into it and add a compost tea to kick start
the process. With that being said, it always works a little better if you let the soil sit in a big pile
to homogenize or “Cook.” Without the use of Bloods, Bones and Guano’s it shouldn’t burn any
plants but will be ready to use faster with the pre-digestion of the nutrients in the soil. When
making soil in big piles above 200 gallons things heat up really fast and will need to be turned
every couple days until the heating stops and you are then ready to use the soil.
I hope this short and simple home made soil tutorial can help you make your own soil, because
once you do, you’ll never go back to bagged soil ever again.

Ultimate Super Soil Mix by Joe Grow

 
 

LEARN - SHARE - GROW

We just smiled n waved sittn there on that sack o seeds

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Posted : March 31, 2020 2:59 pm
Canna_Educator_, Mossbeardmitch, Macky and 5 people liked
Hart
 Hart
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@leafnation88 This is the recipe I just finished and cooking, any recommendations appreciated !  😎

50% coco coir – 30% vermiculite – 15% earth worm castings - 5% mushroom compost
To each 1 c.f. of this mix added the following:
1/2 cup Alfalfa meal
1/2 cup Kelp meal
1/2 cup Zebra mussel meal
1/2 cup Fish meal
1/2 cup Coffee grounds
1 cup of Rock dust
1 cup of Basalt
1 cup of Gypsum
1 cup of Agricultural Lime
1 cup eggshells
1/4 cup of Humic acid granules

Mix
IMG 20200331 101256

We just smiled n waved sittn there on that sack o seeds

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Posted : March 31, 2020 3:32 pm
twisted1, Canna_Educator_, Macky and 3 people liked
Phenohunter88
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@hart Nice! Pumped to get home and look these posts over in more detail (at work). I’ll post our basic recipe later tonight as well. I’ve got a lot to learn, let’s keep this thread up for sure.

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Posted : March 31, 2020 3:57 pm
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Nice posts there.

I'm telling you guys though, the 'rock dusts' are not worth it. Not unless you're re-using the soil over and over, or have a 2+ year veg time. They just take so long to break down and become available. And I'd really like to see some COAs and stuff on those products. Basalt, granite, and the other types of rocks these powders are made from can contain varying levels of some seriously bad heavy metals (e.g., lead, cadmium) in nature so, I hope that that is taken into consideration when sourcing their material. Cannabis is a known phytoremediator - it 'hyper-accumulates' these toxic substances and stores them in its tissue which can then be harvested and safely managed. I think they even used it to help clean up around the Chernobyl disaster area in Ukraine back in the 90s.. crazy shit. So that is definitely something to consider. Don't wanna be smoking that... 😷 

Good article about heavy metals and canna-remediation in Italy

Rolling Stone article referencing canna-remediation used for Chernobyl

I also see the word 'paramagnetic' in there in reference to some of the basalt dust. Maybe we should get some rose quartz, strip naked, and dance in unison chanting praise to the canna-nymphs too. Ahahaha. I kid. But that's a load of shit. Paramagnetic means something is 'weakly' magnetic; basically it's attracted to a magnet, but doesn't attract stuff to itself. There is ZERO evidence that this has anything to do with plant growth, either positive or negative, so don't be fooled by that either. Hippy shit.

Basically though IMO, they're not worth it.

Life's a garden...dig it - Joe Dirt
Supersoil recipe (by me!) --> https://percysgrowroom.com/organic-super-soil-recipe/

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Posted : March 31, 2020 4:15 pm
Hart, twisted1, Macky and 2 people liked
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@templegrower Thanks TG, ya I forgot to mention I was planning on reusing the soil for ~ 5 years. I did see something about heavy metals, hmmm kinda like fertilizers being made from petroleum. Now you got me paranoid, I wonder if I can get a magnet and get that shite out of there, lol  🤔 sigh. I know.. I'll bag it up and sell it for outrageous prices and start anew. Thanks 👍 

We just smiled n waved sittn there on that sack o seeds

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Posted : March 31, 2020 5:48 pm
twisted1, Macky, Fish and 1 people liked
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@hart

Oh nice, that might be a good idea then in that case. I wouldn't worry too much about the heavy metals but it is definitely something to keep in mind, especially in this era of bro-science. A magnet won't help though.. the metals are likely complexed with other elements and not 'metals' per se. Plus, the concentration would be in the PPM range so, relatively speaking, there wouldn't be much in there. But with that stuff, a little goes a long way.

Life's a garden...dig it - Joe Dirt
Supersoil recipe (by me!) --> https://percysgrowroom.com/organic-super-soil-recipe/

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Posted : March 31, 2020 5:59 pm
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February 22, 2020