Help - Day 45 - Crisis - What Do I Do Next

@im_sparky 

As I was catching up on this thread, something you said made me think.

I am not sure I know what early flower looks like compared to middle flower.

I made this collage of close ups of the TWO Purple Lemonades flowers. Based on what you see here, am I in early still, or have them moved into middle flower?

Posted by: @im_sparky

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@exnavyinstl  Aren't you in early bloom ...

Here are some pictures of the twisted leaves on the other Purple Lemonade (not the one of concern for this thread).

I understand a lot of these "symptoms" could be because of a couple of reasons, but these leaves look like they are getting light fatigue.

Posted by: @exnavyinstl

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@im_sparky 

You may be right about this being a combination event. I was away from the house when I was replying earlier.

But, when I got home, the light measured 54 DLI - yikes.

This plant is Purple Lemonade #2, but I also noticed that PL#1 had some twisted leaves now. #1 has been a lot stronger and further along than #2. So, that might be why it hasn't reacted as harshly.

Nonetheless, the light is all the way down to 34 DLI now. 

 

 

 

Posted by: @exnavyinstl

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, when I got home, the light measured 54 DLI - yikes.

This plant is Purple Lemonade #2, but I also noticed that PL#1 had some twisted leaves now.

A DLI of 54 is extremely high. Did the light intensity knob get bumped?  If your DLI has been that high, then I bet you do not have a nutrition issue per se, except that the extremely high transpiration results in the plant not being able to replenish moisture as fast as it evaporates, causing a de-facto overdose of nutrients. Also, with Ca being partially mobile, I am willing to bet the leaf distortion is from not being abler to move enough calcium -- a hallmark of Ca deficiency.

If it were my grow, I would back that light way down, flush with plain RO, and stay on top of watering with Calcium. However, you MUST be careful to not add Ca that contributes too much to Nitrogen, because some brands have as much as 4-5% N.  Also, and very important here especially since you have autos (am I correct that these are autos?), I would be watching for hermaphrodites like a hawk. These girls have been roasted and toasted and stressed, and that very well could cause hermies.

As for flowering stages, it sort of depends on the flowering type, and also the individual strain. Some autos finish in 60-70 days total, others have a flowering stage of 12 weeks. I said "early" flowering based on the appearance of the buds in your photographs, and I was not clear on the age being total days since emergence or if it was when you flipped lighting (but these are autos, right?), or days since pistils emerged. Some people say flowering starts when they flip lights (photo period), I have taken after some here at Percys and regard the start of flowering when the pistils first emerge.

@im_sparky 

I'm going to work on question. I'll be bold and BLUE, and you'll be RED and italics.

A DLI of 54 is extremely high. Did the light intensity knob get bumped? 

I don't know how it happened. I'll start checking every time I open the tent. I don't mind. I track so much data already.

If your DLI has been that high, then I bet you do not have a nutrition issue per se, except that the extremely high transpiration results in the plant not being able to replenish moisture as fast as it evaporates, causing a de-facto overdose of nutrients. Also, with Ca being partially mobile, I am willing to bet the leaf distortion is from not being abler to move enough calcium -- a hallmark of Ca deficiency.

Excellent reasoning. I'll address the Calcium in the next answer.

If it were my grow, I would back that light way down, flush with plain RO, and stay on top of watering with Calcium. However, you MUST be careful to not add Ca that contributes too much to Nitrogen, because some brands have as much as 4-5% N.  Also, and very important here especially since you have autos (am I correct that these are autos?), I would be watching for hermaphrodites like a hawk. These girls have been roasted and toasted and stressed, and that very well could cause hermies.

Yes, these are autos. I'll give a good foliar bath of Gypsum Calcium instead of Cal/Mag spray.

Hermie watch has been activated!!!

As for flowering stages, it sort of depends on the flowering type, and also the individual strain. Some autos finish in 60-70 days total, others have a flowering stage of 12 weeks. I said "early" flowering based on the appearance of the buds in your photographs, and I was not clear on the age being total days since emergence or if it was when you flipped lighting (but these are autos, right?), or days since pistils emerged. Some people say flowering starts when they flip lights (photo period), I have taken after some here at Percys and regard the start of flowering when the pistils first emerge.

Because they are Autos, my time/date stamps are always based on the day the seedling breaks throught the soil/coco.

Because I also leave my Grow Journals on the website by the same name, I also follow the same indicators. When I see those pretty white hairs, I call that Flowering. I say this because each week that website makes you decide on a label such as:

Germ, Veg, Flower, Harvest

Now, when I grow photoperiods. I begin Flower at the switch to 12/12. 

Posted by: @im_sparky

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except that the extremely high transpiration results in the plant not being able to replenish moisture as fast as it evaporates, causing a de-facto overdose of nutrients

This is what I experienced when something similar happened in a grow over a year ago. The EC was too high for the lower humidity level and high light level in the tent so the plant needed more water but also got the salts resulting in the leaves getting burned and shriveled from the edges. Even though the indicators said the plant wanted more feed, it couldn’t take it based on environmental conditions. If your DLI was that high it most certainly could be the culprit. That would explain a lot.

Day 46 - About the Sick Plant

I realize that when we see symptoms there may be more on the way as the problem makes its way through the plant.

Having said that, there were more leaves looking less than optimal. But no where as bad as the others.

I hope it has enough vigor to keep flowering. I am doubtful only because these plants have so few leaves to help create new energy.

I gave it some micronutrients, including calcium (but no nitrogen). She even got a shot of humic/kelp before bed.

Thanks for all of you chipping in with advice. I followed it. But even so, I am realistic.

I'll leave you all with this. Since starting this mad-capped hobby in Sept 21, I've had a history of overwatering the seedlings. It got to where I thought I might have to wear a straight jacket to keep my hands away from water and plants.

This time I took less drastic measures, I created a meme to remind me.

I saw this graphic on IG yesterday. The timing and message are perfect.

The DLI (42) in your original post still seems high, and close to the limit if you’re  supplementing Co2.

@sevans1965 yep -- I completely agree that without supplemental CO2, 42 DLI is still too high. @exnavyinstl, the chart that sevans posted above is the one from Photone that I mentioned, and what I reference for lighting.

Thank you guys.

I have corrected the situation.

Plus, I cleaned out the reservoir and started with fresh salts.

I did add CaliMagic, it only has 1% nitrogen.

I cut the Jack's to 80% strength.

Funny thing is even cutting, because of the CaliMagic and my line cleaner, I am back up to 1.9 EC @ 5.8.

Before opening up the master rez, I drained out all of the mini-reservoirs on the AutoPots. I wanted it fresh for them right away.

The line cleaner has P & K, not much but enough to add to the numbers. However, all plants are leaning to flowering now so that P&K will get used.