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pH - The most important! (kind of)


TempleGrower
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Myrcene
Joined: 3 years ago

Now obviously the nutrients are what the plant actually uses to grow and be a plant but, in order for it to be able to absorb the N,P,K,Ca,Mg,B,Zn,Fe, etc., the medium must be at the appropriate pH for these nutrients to actually be available. In soil, the magic range is between approximately 6.0-7.0. (I personally go for about 6.3)

Whenever I begin to see almost any issues (besides pests or other visually obvious problems), the first thing I always do is check my pH. More often than not, it's a bit out out of whack and is much easier to remedy than jumping to a nutrient deficiency conclusion, which can cause the issue to become even more severe by adding more of the nutrient that is not actually deficient. Traditional fertilizers (e.g. Miracle Gro) tend to acidify (lower the pH) the medium over time. However, if there is an issue, a good flush with some distilled water is usually all that is needed.

Make sure you have a decent pH pen, or some other half-ass accurate way (sorry litmus paper) to check your water source! For example, I use my municipal tap water, and it's base pH is around 7.8-8.0 (we are very alkaline around here, lots of calcium carbonate in the water), so I need to add pH Down to it to bring it down, usually to around 6.3, before I water.

 

pH2
pH1

Some handy charts adapted from Jorge Cervantes' The Cannabis Encyclopedia.

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Macky
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OG
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Posted by: @templegrower

Now obviously the nutrients are what the plant actually uses to grow and be a plant but, in order for it to be able to absorb the N,P,K,Ca,Mg,B,Zn,Fe, etc., the medium must be at the appropriate pH for these nutrients to actually be available. In soil, the magic range is between approximately 6.0-7.0. (I personally go for about 6.3)

Whenever I begin to see almost any issues (besides pests or other visually obvious problems), the first thing I always do is check my pH. More often than not, it's a bit out out of whack and is much easier to remedy than jumping to a nutrient deficiency conclusion, which can cause the issue to become even more severe by adding more of the nutrient that is not actually deficient. Traditional fertilizers (e.g. Miracle Gro) tend to acidify (lower the pH) the medium over time. However, if there is an issue, a good flush with some distilled water is usually all that is needed.

Make sure you have a decent pH pen, or some other half-ass accurate way (sorry litmus paper) to check your water source! For example, I use my municipal tap water, and it's base pH is around 7.8-8.0 (we are very alkaline around here, lots of calcium carbonate in the water), so I need to add pH Down to it to bring it down, usually to around 6.3, before I water.

 

pH2
pH1

Some handy charts adapted from Jorge Cervantes' The Cannabis Encyclopedia.

Nice work as usual mate Smile I made these pH Charts:

hydroph
soil ph
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TempleGrower
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Myrcene
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@macky

Yeah, I saw those in your very in-depth article after I posted this, haha. The more the merrier I guess.. ?.

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Macky
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@templegrower

For sure man!!! Added some updates to the post writing thing 😉 It auto save every thirty seconds, and you can save drafts,and preview a post before you publish it now. So its better to write Smile Hope you like the upgrades man

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Eucalipto
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@macky I'm looking at the charts...I see red means lockout and green is in range, but what do the yellow and orange mean? Thanks.

 

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